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Week in Reviews, London Edition

Mayfields-restaurant-chai-008.jpgObserver critic Jay Rayner reviews chef Matthew Young's Mayfields in London. He calls it a "brilliant display of intelligent cooking." The food is also very manly. On the "ox heart and pickle" dish: "If you put a pair of sentient testicles in chef's whites and gave them free run of a kitchen, this surely is the dish they would cook." [Observer]