Week in Reviews: Gordon Ramsay Edition

Critic Marina O'Loughlin reviews Gordon Ramsay's new London restaurant Union Street Cafe. She likes it sort of ("It's my favourite Ramsay restaurant so far. Make of that what you will") and gives it 7/10 overall. But she also knocks it a bit: "I'm irritated by its derivative nature – it's not so much Italian as Batali-an. I think Ramsay's people have been keeping the beadiest of eyes on the empire of US superchef Mario Batali, a man who manages to wrangle the impossible triumvirate of TV fame, mass appeal and critical acclaim." [Guardian]