Josh Ozersky profiles NYC chef Jonathan Benno (of the under-appreciated Lincoln Ristorante), showing mad respect for his "obsessive perfectionism" and refusal to play into the chefs' cult of personality: "Unhappily for Mr. Benno, his higher qualities not only tend to be ignored in the present culinary milieu; they actually have the effect of bringing him down." [Observer] [Photo: Krieger/ENY]
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