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Food Television, Disliked

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Nina Burleigh finds "Gordon Ramsay's culinary boot-camp shtick" "mesmerizing," but is troubled by all this food porn when "nearly 50 million Americans risk going hungry." The editorial includes quotes by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Alan Richman, mentions of Grant Achatz, "truffled amuse-bouches," ancient Rome, and this line: "But in post-feminist, recessionary America, the metaphorical lust in glamorized food spectacles is a relic of a more luxurious era when banal, G-rated hunger was confined to the Sudan." [LAT]