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Tweezer-Toting Elves Wire

Author and consultant Joyce Goldstein on the sameness of tweezer cuisine: "The reality is that no matter how new and stylish the venue, I had seen these plates before in the last six hip places where I had dined... I envisage an underground team of tiny elves with tweezers, carefully placing tiny little pieces of food in regimented lines across plates all over the country... What happened to the mantra of 'flavor first' that used to drive chefs?" [Chronicle]

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