The Critics

New York Times critic Pete Wells breaks his legendary silence about small plates: "[M]any dishes served at allegedly tapas-style restaurants simply don't split well. Either they look like a car crash by the time you've divided them in four, or your portion ends up being so small you hardly get to know it before it's gone." His blog rant was inspired by his review of La Vara in which he wrote: "When will New York restaurants stop peddling the myth of 'small plates meant for sharing'? Small plates are meant for hoarding." [NYT]