Josh Ozersky on Substitutions

Food writer Josh Ozersky knows some top-end chefs can get away with refusing substitutions to the menu, but not necessarily everyone: "it exploits the privilege of elite taste culture — the kind of snobs-vs.-slobs haughtiness that fuels culture warriors in the so-called red states. For the good of the country, can we all agree that this has gone too far?" [Time]