Pete Wells investigates Japanese seasonality at New York's Kyo Ya, which apparently makes those who believe ramps to be the epitome of seasonal cooking look a little like someone who believes "eating a tuna salad sandwich makes you a marine biologist." David Tamarkin reviews the over-the-top richness of Au Cheval in Chicago: "Such excess doesn’t mean this food is bad. It’s just food you have to eat when you’re drunk." Jonathan Kauffman recommends dressing down for the smoky restaurant Cedar Hill in San Francisco.
New York Times/Pete Wells: Kyo Ya, 3 stars
Village Voice/Robert Sietsema: Zero Otto Nove
New York/Adam Platt: The Toucan and the Lion, 3 stars
Insatiable Critic/Gael Greene: Benoit
New Yorker/Silvia Killingsworth: Acme
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