The Independent's Samuel Muston ponders the rise of the tasting-menu-only restaurant and whether this is what diners really want. Describing dinner at NYC's Per Se, he writes: "It was intricate, down-the-line consistent, a sort of culinary symphony; it was also a slog, palate-crushing and an evening in which conversation was frequently stretched and broken by the endless ministrations of the staff." [Independent]
[Photo: Krieger]
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