Parm in New York; Chicago's Goosefoot

Pete Wells ponders Italian-American cuisine at Parm in New York, which he gives two stars. Julia Kramer finds flawless tasting menus that lack personality at Goosefoot in Chicago. Jonathan Kauffman finds that if house-made pantry items are the hallmark of "true" food, "the fare at Izakaya Yuzuki, a 2-month-old restaurant in [San Francisco], are as true as Raymond Carver stories."

New York:
New York Times/Pete Wells: Parm, 2 stars
Village Voice/Robert Sietsema: Elza Fancy Foods
Time Out New York/Jay Cheshes: Parm, 4 out of 5 stars
Insatiable Critic/Gael Greene: La Mangeoire
New Yorker/Lizzie Widdicombe: David Burke Kitchen
Village Voice/Lauren Shockey: Sottocasa
New York Post/Steve Cuozzo: Gwynnett St.

Chicago:
Time Out Chicago/Julia Kramer: Goosefoot, 4 out of 5 stars
Time Out Chicago/David Tamarkin: BLT American Brasserie, 1 out of 5 stars

San Francisco:
SF Gate/Michael Bauer: Lers Ros, two and a half stars
SF Weekly/Jonathan Kauffman: Izakaya Yuzuki

Didn't see your favorite big-city reviewer? Let us know!