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J. Gold on Summer Food; The Bedford in Chicago

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The Bedford, Chicago.
The Bedford, Chicago.
Photo: The Bedford

This week in reviews: LA Weekly critic Jonathan Gold doesn't really care if you think it's too soon for him to review yet another Korean pork place: "As the air grows still and hot, the days melt into languor and the Dodgers swoon toward the cellar, the pull of summer food becomes impossibly strong." Also, Pat Bruno checks out Paul Virant's takeover at Perennial Virant and eats dinner in a bank vault at the Bedford in Chicago.

And lede of the day goes to Chris Shott of the Washington City Paper for his review of Serendipity 3 in which someone sitting next to him puked: "I had just managed to choke down an entire $12 'Monumental Hangover' omelet—a feat almost as daunting and dubious as its name suggests—when the guy sitting next to me suddenly lost his lunch."

Los Angeles:
LA Weekly/Jonathan Gold: Wako Donkasu

Washington, DC:
Washington Post/Tom Sietsema: Freddy's Lobster and Clams, 1.5 stars
Washington City Paper/Chris Shott: Serendipity 3

Chicago Sun-Times/Pat Bruno: Perennial Virant
Chicago Sun-Times/Pat Bruno: Porkchop
Chicago Sun-Times/Pat Bruno: The Bedford
Chicago Reader/Mike Sula: Autre Monde

Didn't see your favorite big-city reviewer? Let us know!

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