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The J. Gold on Banchan in LA; Chicago's Bistro Voltaire

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Bistro Voltaire, Chicago.
Bistro Voltaire, Chicago.
Photo: Bistro Voltaire

End-of-week-reviews: Jonathan Gold explores the world of Korean banchan at Soban in Los Angeles, writing "If Seoul ever hits the haute cuisine big time, crowded with tourists eager to experience the recombinant DNA of Korean cooking...it will be banchan they're hungry for, 30 to 40 courses with the cumulative weight of air." And in Chicago, Pat Bruno is disappointed in the bad bread at Bistro Voltaire: "What were you thinking, Bistro Voltaire?...Did you think no one would notice?"

Los Angeles:
Los Angeles Times/S. Irene Virbila: Osteria la Buca, 2 stars
LA Weekly/Jonathan Gold: Soban

Chicago:
Chicago Sun-Times/Pat Bruno: Bistro Voltaire, half star
Chicago Sun-Times/Pat Bruno: Tuscany, 1.5 stars

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