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Food World 'Hypocrisy'

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2011_08_deen.jpgIn an op-ed column ex-Times critic Frank Bruni picks up the week-old story of the Bourdain-Paula Deen silliness. He digs into the "class-inflected hypocrisy in the food world": "When Deen fries a chicken, many of us balk. When the Manhattan chefs David Chang or Andrew Carmellini do, we grovel for reservations and swoon over the homey exhilaration of it all." After bizarrely calling the No Reservatons host a "part-time chef" — where, exactly? — Bruni also writes "Bourdain's Brasserie Les Halles restaurant." Which is odd since a few days ago Bourdain tweeted: "I no longer work there and have no stake..." [NYT]

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