New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton reviews Grant Achatz's Next in Chicago, and compares it to his other restaurant, Alinea: "At Alinea the dishes rarely fail. They are polished to the highest sheen. That does not make it a perfect restaurant; indeed, it can make it a cold one. At Next, the food may sometimes wobble, but never so much that it does not engender laughter, close attention and learning. Next makes you want to return." [NYT]
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