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J. Gold on LA's Umami Burger; Moe's Cantina in Chicago

Umami Burger, Studio City, California.
Umami Burger, Studio City, California.
Photo: Elizabeth Daniels

Jonathan Gold contemplates how deep the umami concept goes at Umami Burger in LA: "Its logo recalls a burger-centric take on Georgia O'Keeffe imagery, which implies an umami of its own." And in Chicago, Pat Bruno ponders the identity crisis going on at Moe's Cantina, which is "either a sports bar that thinks it’s a restaurant or a restaurant that got a deal on a bulk purchase of TVs."

Los Angeles:
Los Angeles Times/S. Irene Virbila: The Spice Table, 2 stars
LA Weekly/Jonathan Gold: Umami Burger
LA Weekly/Jonathan Gold: Lao Bian Dumpling

Boston:
Boston Herald/Mat Schaffer: Floating Rock, B

Washington, DC:
Washington Post/Tom Sietsema: Newton's Table, 2 stars

Chicago:
Chicago Sun-Times/Pat Bruno: Moe’s Cantina, 1 star
Chicago Sun-Times/Pat Bruno: Bite Cafe, 2 stars

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