Jonathan Gold contemplates how deep the umami concept goes at Umami Burger in LA: "Its logo recalls a burger-centric take on Georgia O'Keeffe imagery, which implies an umami of its own." And in Chicago, Pat Bruno ponders the identity crisis going on at Moe's Cantina, which is "either a sports bar that thinks it’s a restaurant or a restaurant that got a deal on a bulk purchase of TVs."
Boston Herald/Mat Schaffer: Floating Rock, B
Washington Post/Tom Sietsema: Newton's Table, 2 stars
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