The Quotable McInerney

In a piece about Le Bernardin chef Eric Ripert and sommelier Aldo Sohm, wine critic Jay McInerney writes: "When in doubt, Mr. Sohm says, Champagne is probably the most versatile food wine in the world, a point that he emphasized recently when he matched an eight-course tasting menu at Le Bernardin with eight different Champagnes for the benefit of my wife, Anne, who drinks only bubbly." [WSJ]