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Gordon Ramsay Wire

petrus-150.jpgGordon Ramsay's recently-relaunched restaurant Petrus in London has become the British critics' new favorite whipping boy. From the latest review in the Guardian: "The room squeaks inaudibly beneath the weight of ambient cliché... If anyone asks how best to redesign it, 'with a flame-thrower' would be the reply... My boiled beef cheek in an indistinct consommé had half the depth of flavour of boiled white rice." [Guardian]