Jay Rayner explains why the 32-year-old René Redzepi's Noma restaurant in Copenhagen won the top spot in the S. Pellegrino world's 50 best restaurants, writing: "Noma pursues a regional, seasonal agenda that is right on the cutting edge: if it isn't available in the Nordic region, he won't cook with it. The result is a very idiosyncratic style of food that speaks to concerns about the way a global food culture turns our eating experiences a uniform beige... In some quarters, of course, the decision will be read as a slap in the face for the modernists, especially for El Bulli and the Fat Duck." [Guardian]
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