Kim Severson pens a heartfelt profile on Thomas Keller and how the death of his father impacted his life. In addition to many sentimental bits, the profile points out how both Per Se and the French Laundry are in transition phases, and Michael Ruhlman also notes that Keller himself as "gone through quite an evolution." But don't think that The Laundryman isn't still a perfectionist: "...an unfortunate young counter worker at New York’s Bouchon Bakery recently received a personal lecture on the importance of wearing a belt." [NYT]
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