Seems like every few months, some rabblerouser causes a mini-uproar and accuses Ferran Adria—and by proxy, the entire molecular gastronomy movement—of being fundamentally unsafe to diners. Last year, it was Spanish rival chef Santi Santamaria calling the chemicals into question. Today, that person is one Jörg Zipprick, a German food writer who was so thoroughly unimpressed with his El Bulli experience that he wrote an entire book called The Unappetising Underside of Molecular Cooking:
“It would not occur to any fast-food chain to stuff us with 20 or 30 dishes full of chemical additives,” he says, referring to the El Bulli menu.
But that's not all. Jörgie Boy also thinks those chemical additives will mess up the insides of diners, asserting that they do not have a "neutral impact on health," adding that some even have a "laxative effect," meaning Zipprick probably may or may not have gotten the runs after his 30-course dinner at El Buli.
However, more serious are Zipprick's accusations that the chemicals cause cancer, a conspiracy theory that has become more common in the US since Chicago wunderkind Grant Achatz was diagnosed with mouth cancer. Adria's response to the accusations: "the chemicals he uses have been part of haute cuisine for years and he denies his dishes pose any risk to health."
· Top chef Ferran Adria 'poisons' El Bulli diners with additives [Times UK]